Pondicherry (Tamil Nadu) - January 28th, 2007

Nagapattinam - Velanganni (Tamil Nadu) Jan. 27th, 2007

Trichy - Tanjore (Tamil Nadu) - January 26th, 2007

Trichy (Tamil Nadu) - January 25th, 2007

Madurai (Tamil Nadu) - January 24th

Madurai (Tamil Nadu) - January 23rd, 2007

Rameswaran (Tamil Nadu) - January 22nd, 2007

Rameswaran (Tamil Nadu) - January 21st, 2007

Waiting at the bus station this morning I met Richard, a guy from North Carolina. He was very talkative so we got to chat in the way to Rameswaran. This town is one of the most significant pilgrimage centres in So. India. Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu, offered thanks to Shiva. The Ramanathaswamy temple is one of the most important temples in So. India. This town is located on an island in the gulf of Mannar in the south east of India, connected to the mainland by the Indira Gandhi bridge (one of India's great engineering wonder, inaugurated in 1988. It was once an important ferry port with passenger services to and from Sri Lanka, but unfortunately the service stopped when things got ugly between both countries. I was hopping to go to Sri Lanka the old way, but will have to wait in the future.
Rameswaran is a fishing village besides the constant pilgrim mecca. In the evening they had a live show accross from the hotel welcoming pilgrims and others, so I watched the entertainment while Richard meditated.

Kanyakumari (Tamil Nadu) India - Jan. 20th, 2007

This morning I got up at 6:30 am and when I picked at the window, I saw a glimpse of sunrise, then, I realized that this is an expectacular location for watching the sunrise and sunset by the sea, so I rushed outside and many pilgrims and Hindus were watchings it as well.
It was a cloudy morning so the sight wasn't that great. But is interesting to see so many pilgrims wrapped in black or orange gear everywhere.
I changed rooms and this one has a balcony with view of the sea and the catholic church. Later, I went on the ferry shuttle between the port and the two islands. The first island has the Vivekananda Memorial located on a rocky island. Swami Vivekananda meditated here before he became a very important religious crusader.
The other island has a huge statue of Tamil poet Thiruvelluvar, India's 'statue of Liberty'. 5,000 sculptors worked on it on the year 2,000, and is 133 feet high.
While visiting the statue, people must leave their shoes outside. After I got my picture taken by the left foot of the statue for size reference, I went outside and my left sandal dissapeared. Someone told me that a gusty wind blew the shoes around. Only another lady and I lost our LEFT foot sandal!

Sivananda - Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu - Jan. 19th, 2007

There is speculation that the Dravidians were part of early Indus civilization and that they came south to the area around 1500 BC. The 3 dynasties controlling the region were the Cholas, Pandyas and Chevas during the classical period of Tamil literature.
Later, it has been almost totally dominated by the British when the region became Madras Presidency. India's independence was won in 1947, and in 1956 the Madras Presidency was replaced by Tamil Nadu, an autonomous state. Tamil Nadu occupies the south-eastern part of India.
Today, after doing 2 hrs. of yoga and having a great brunch at the Sivananda center, I travelled to Kanyakumari, the "furthest south" city in India, also called Cape Comorin. It's is the land's end of the Indian subcontinent, where the Bay of Bengal meets the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea.
This city is dedicated to the goddess Devi Kanya, an incarnation of Pavarti, that is why this town is a pilgrimage place of great spiritual significance for the Hindus. They say that Devi conquered demons and secured freedom for the world.
I took a walk by the fishermen neighborhood and it was a 'fabella type' barrio, very poor and dirty, but the catholic church they built in this neighborhood is very ostentuous, a beautiful pastel color building. Inside, few fishermen wives in saries were seating in the floor praying, since the whole central and front areas of the temple didn't have benches to seat.
In the street, I run into some of the girls from the Sivananda center who tok the tour today, and were returning back this evening. They told me that I was very brave for travelling alone.

Sivananda Yoga Ashram, Neyyar Dam - Jan. 18, 2007

This is a comfortable and relaxing place, but I decided that I won't be here for the 2-week yoga vacation I signed up for. The main thing is that I am back to doing yoga again and I will bring my yoga mat along to rming me to continue doing it daily. I feel my body stiff and sore from so much exercise but it is just what I needed. Today my karma yoga was sweeping leaves by the lake, a beautiful area. They say there are crocodiles in this lake. That was a much pleasant job than yesterday's.
Tomorrow is a day off here, so most people will do a day trip, but I will check out and go to the furthest southern point in India!

Sivananda Yoga Ashram, Neyyar Dam - Jan. 17, 2007

I realized that the 6 am meditation is too early time for me to be awaken. My body is still tired so I join them for the lecture at 7 am, and right after is the 2 hrs. yoga.
For my karma yoga, which is a selfless job each of us must do while here, I decided to mop the dormitory floors without help, and when yoga time came at 4 pm, I was still tired from all that mopping. I had to go to bed right away after dinner at 6:30pm, and was in bed for about 12 hrs. (maybe that's why they call it "the yoga vacation" course.
Here they do various ayurvedic treatments, with oils and herbs, and panchakarma (this is a 2-week treatment to detox and purify the organs and body. The part that I would dread the most would probably be the edema. I don't think I am ready for all these treatments.

Sivananda Yoga Ashram, Neyyar Dam - Jan. 16, 2007

This morning I decided to go to the Yoga Ashram and stay there a few days so I can get back into yoga practice. There are a few hundred people here, and the schedule keep us pretty busy from meditation at 6 am, 2 hrs. of yoga in the morning and 2 hrs. in the afternoon, and two excellent vegetarian meals, and 2 tea times in between meals.
There are several temples and halls and they are just suspended by pillars so the cool breeze and wonderful views of trees, mountains and lake can be enjoyed while here. My first yoga class this afternoon, after 2 and a half months without practice, was very welcoming by my whole being, and I felt blessed to experience it in such open air and nature environment.
I started running into some familiar faces...we all move in similar circles.

Trivandrum (So. Kerala) India - January 15th, 2007

Today I visited the Sivananda Yoga Ashram which is a little over 1 hr. away an dis located near Neyyar Dam. This ashram is very well known for its hatha yoga courses, with very peaceful surroundings, Sahyadi Hills, Agastya peak and lake, helps unwind mind, body and soul.
The profound spirituality of ancient India can be experience here. This ashram run mostly by volunteers who are always ready to serve as part of their spiritual practice. This place was established in 1977 by Swami Vishmdevananda. It serves as a retreat and encourages to practice yoga morning and afternoon.

Trivandrum (So. Kerala) India - January 14th, 2007

This morning I went to Kovalam beach, Kerala's most popular beach side resort, with good beaches a lush and peaceful palm and paddy setting. Kovalam consists of two coves, Lighthouse beach and Hawah beach.
On one side there are a lot of fishermen, who get all lined up and pull from the rope syncronized while chanting, as the nets get closer to shore. These were huge nets and I thought thousands of fish would be trapped on them. But to my surpirse, there were only about one dozen small fish in it. So sad... so many men, so much work and time and effort, just to get so little for that big ocean. They still were cheerful but I was devastated about the whole picture. Some people explained to me that this is the low fishing season (from March on is the raining season and is when they get a lot of fish). The sunami also has to do with the decrease of fish.
After watching all that for almost two hours, I wasn't able to enjoy the beach, my heart was very sad for them.
I returned to Trivandrum and went to see a Guru movie, but it had nothing to do with what I was expecting, besides being in Hindi language, so I left halfways into the film.

Amrithapuri - Trivandrum (So. Kerala) Jan. 13th, 2007

Last night I didn't get much sleep and before 5 am I heard the chanting and I got up and went to see a puja taking place next to the temple. It was interesting to watch the priest perform the ceremony and then gave to all of us present a handful of blessed cereal food. After that, I went by the beach to see the sun rise around 7am, and then I realized that I was ready to go and check out of the ashram and continue my travels. That was my final decision, so I went back to have breakfast at the ashram and say goodbye to some new friends.
I travelled to Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala, and took a long walk this afternoon to get familiar with the town which is not all that big.
Trivandrum is build over seven hills, and the new name now is Thiruvananthapuram or city of the sacred serpent.

Amrithapuri (So. Kerala) India - January 12th, 2007

I was contemplating the idea to go on the tour with Amma on the 20th of this month, for 3 weeks, thru the south of India, to places I haven't been yet, so it all depends of my meeting with her. If things change drastically for me and I feel like I need the blessings for 3 weeks, and the experience of travelling and following one of the few guru ladies here in India, I will then go for it, so I am a little nervious about the outcome.
I have met many people here from Spain, mainly catalonians from Barcelona. Amma has visited Barcelona the last few years, and the last yearshe announced while there, that she is going to build an ashram in Barcelone, so many of those people decided to travel here and visit this ashram, and tour with her thru the South of India. She will go to many pilgrimage towns and will gud thousands of people.
This evening around 7:00pm all the new people got lined up in the temple, and one by one, approached her to receive her hug. She is a big size, kind of short, with a very smiley face, and she just hold each of us strongly for a few seconds and wisper something to my ear that sounded like "carino, carino". Shortly after, the next person behind me was being pull into my spot to receive her hug and blessing.

Amrithapuri (So. Kerala) India - January 11th, 2006

A new roommate from France is joining us. A very pleasant lady, grandmother of 4 lovely children, travelling by herself for the first time, because mainly she wanted to meet her godchild who she has been helping financially for over 2 years. She is very excited to meet that child and his Indian family in the hill region of Munnar. She also has done the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage in Spain.
I went back to the swimming pool since the water is pretty cool. Such beautiful sea but nobody gets in the water, and we can only get wet in the pool.
This afternoon Amma arrives to the ashram after 10 days on the tour, so I am looking forward to meeting her.

Amrithapuri (So. Kerala) India - January 10th, 2007

My roommate is from Ethiopia, Africa. I believe she is the only color lady in the premises. She is very interesting and highly educated, as well as very well read about all sorts of spiritual quests, so I enjoy her conversations.
This ashram attracts all types of very interesting people, not the hippie types, but average person in search of more spiritual development, and mainly to be sparkled by Amma.
This afternoon I amgoing to go to the swimming pool since there is one hour for women only. Of course, I still have to wear a mumu dress they have by the pool, to avoid women revealing themselves in bathingsuit while swimming. Only in India this sort of thing probably happen...!

Amrithapuri (So. Kerala) India - January 9th, 2007

Today I presenced a puja (purification) of the local people by the sea. The location of this ashram in this fishermen village town, is between the Arabian sea and the canals. Amma constructed a big bridge for crossing over the canals, so if there were to happen another Sunnami catastrophe, children could run to the bridge steps and save their lives.
When the Sunami hit 2 yeas ago, few children were killed in this village, and a lot of fishermen homes destroyed. She rebuilt a lot of these families' lives, and has lots of proyects to help victims of the catastrophe. They grow their own Ayurvedic herbs and have a beautiful building by the ocean where they do Ayurvedic research.
In the early morning and evening before sunset, Amma encourages the Westerners to go there and meditate by the sea. This evening I went there at 5:30pm and sat by the rocks watching the sunset and the crashing waves as the sun sets. A very peaceful and meditating spot.

Amrithapuri (So. Kerala) India - January 8th, 2007

I arrived to this big and beautiful ashram of gury Amma but she is not here. She left on a tour 3 days ago and willreturn here on Thursday, so I decided this is a good time for me to relax and recharge my energies. On Thursday, many people will arrive here to be in her presence and meditate with her. Her mission amongst other things, is equality of men and women, education, motherhood love toward each human being that comes to her wanting to heal. Her embraces transformed many lives of those people who came in touch with her. Her ashram is a very big complex and community, one of the buildings being the Ayurvedic University.

Kollan (So. Kerala) India - January 7th, 2007

Today is a relaxing day, and since is pretty warm outside, I am enjoying reading, writting and washing indoors. In the afternoon I went to the local beach, but it was totally packed by the locals (on Sunday that is mostly what happens). The waves in this beach are more dangerous, so nobody was in the water. No westerners here (they must be all in Varkala beach).
Tomorrow I am planning to visit the ashram of Matha Amrithanandamayi, one of India's very few female gurus. She is known as Amma (mother) and is also called "the hugging mother".

Kollan - Varkala (So. Kerala) India - Jan. 6th, 2007

I visited Varkala beach because I wanted to be surrounded by gringos and westerners for a change (I thought I would never say that...). Varkala has dramatic cliffs full of shops, restaurants and accomodations on top, and below the cliffs are perfect beaches. From the cliffs there is a perfect view of the Arabian sea, and Papanashan beach is free of hawkers and sellers.
What a sense of freedom to be able to be in my bikini and feel myself! The people around me were also westerners doing the same thing.
There are a lot of waves in the Southern Kerala beaches which makes it difficult to swim, but still is fun to be splashed around by the waves!

Kollan (So. Kerala) India - January 5th, 2007

Going further south in Kerala, and about 2-1/2 hours is Kollan, which is the southern gateway to the backwaters, but not as popular as Alleppey. This is a busy market town, surrounded by coconut palms and cashew plantations on the edge of the Ashtamundi lake. They have a big modern commercial complex, with 15 to 20 internet shops compiting with each other.

Alleppey - Kottayan (Kerala) - January 4th, 2007

This morning I went to visit Kottayan by bus. Here in Alleppey they sell tourist cruises between these two towns thru the canals. Kottayan district was the first one in India to achieve total literacy, and today is the headquarters of the Malayalan language (they speak this language allover Kerala state) and show their own movies in this language.
From there, I went to visit the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary - very tropical lush and along the canals, the have a variety of domestic and migratory birds. This is the season for cormorants and ducks. There was a constant flow of boathouses travelling by or stopping to visit the bird sanctuary.
Kumarakom is actually located on the shore of Vembanal lake, with nice resorts around this very placid and peaceful area. When I left this place, I went to try a typical fish meal with a coconut alcoholic drink served in a pitcher, in the country side. At least 15 men went by my pal hut to say "hello". What is it with these men...??

Alleppey(Kerala)India-January 3rd,2007

This morning everybody looked happy because things were back to normal, and the children going back to school after the long holidays (extra days forthem due to strike), they were smiling and constantly greeting "hello, hello".
I decided to experiment with henna coloring, bigmess doing it the old fashion way. Since they don't have light blonde tones, I thought is the right time togo darker and henna has red natural tones, so... done!
In the afternoon I walked to the beach, nice, long beach with few fisherman getting crabs off their nets. Is noticeable the attitude some muslims have towards westerners...ignoring...not selling...!

Alleppey (So. Kerala), India - January 2rd, 2007

I decided to travel to Alleppey because is a famous destination for backwater canal trips. When I arrived here this morning, I found out that this city has had a strike for the last 3 days. No stores, no restaurants and no transportation available, and it was to be resumed by 6pm this evening.
The guy who greeted me at my arrival at the bus station, explained to me that the strike was because of Bush...just what I needed to hear! There is a big majority of muslim people here so the strike paralized business for 3 days. There are very few tourists as well.
At 6pm, when the strike was over, I went for a boat ride; the local people who live in the villages along the canals take this boad daily, so it must have been hard for them to be without this transportation mainly in the New Year's weekend!
It was a very enjoyable ride with lots of coconut and palm trees, and the sari ladies walking by their homes or squatting and washing things by the little 2-step dock infront of their homes.
Kerala is a little different state apart from the others in India. They had the first freely elected communist government in the world in 1957, and are holding power regularly. Vasco de Gama arrived in 1948 and the European colonialism started on. Portuguese, Dutch, and English fought each other to have control of the spice trade.

Kochin (Kerala), India - January 1st, 2007

Happy New Year 2007!
Christine has hired a car with driver for 2 weeks, so today she was leaving town. She decided this time to doing this way and make it easier on herself. After all, she has to go back to work in a week already, so she can relax and be taken from town to town (only the south of Kerala, So. India).
I took the ferry to Fort Kochin and suddently I saw many tourists in groups. I sat with the sari ladies. When we arrived, I went to visit the Mattancherry Palace and the Pardesi Sinagogue surrounded by Jew Town. This sinagogue was destroyed by the Portuguese and rebuilt by the Dutch. Around the sinagogue is Jew Town, spice trade center.
The beach on Fort Kochin is terrible, small and dirty water, just a little promenade above that the Indian people were walking by. Next to it are the Chinese fishing nets, which they are used in high tide only.
I had to take another ferry to go to Vypeen Island where the beach with decent water was located. This time, many Hindus were in the water, the young boys, and guys, the women only wet their feet and hold on to their saris so they don't wet too wet. No tourists though, I wanted were they all went.
I realized that being in the beach in India is different than the rest of the world. None of these people really enjoy the beach nor let us enjoy it! They have a big issue with bodies and undressing, yet, they are full of morbid thoughts and judgements when we, westerners, ar trying to enjoy the ocean or the sun. They will watch, they will stare, and they will approach you - in the water and out of the water -- so you are not allowed to be left alone or to have some privacy. It can be very annoying because the fun of going to the beach becomes a real challenge and culture shock.

Kochin (Kerala), India - December 31st, 2006

Since today is the last day of the year, I decided to travel to Kochin because I wanted to be by the beach to welcome the New Year. I stayed in Kochin mainland, Ernakulam.
Kochin consists of 4 islands, Fort Kochin, and Mattancherry, and they are all linkied by ferries and bridges.
I went to see a Kathakali performance in the evening, which is based on the Hindu epics of Ramayana. They used to take place in the temples. The first hour we watched the characters put on their make up, and after that was the performance dance. Christina, the Italina girl I met there, asked me to call her if I wanted to do something for the New Year's eve celebration, but instead I went to bed...and woke up to the New Year 2007!!

Thrissur (Kerala), India - December 30th, 2006

This morning I got up early becaues I wanted to visit two places out of town. One was the Sri Krishna Temple at Guruvayur, supposed to be the most famous in Kerala and popular pilgrim place. Turns out only Hindus are allowed to visit it.
So I then went to the Temple's Elephants. They have 60 elephants on the grounds of an old Zaromin palace. Each of these elephants is chainned to a tree, and the chain is only about 4 or 5 meters long. They said they are training them for their parade festivals and temple celebrations.
Since there was a German group with a tour guide, I was able to get under one of the elephant's tromp. It's brief but scary feeling to be behind that huge tromp...! Those elephants were so good at grabbing big branches and sand with their tromps and tossing all that up in the air, so I thought that maybe they could rap me in their tromp and toss me up just as well!
That afternoon I wanted to visit the Kerala Kalamandalam, a place of traditional art of Kerala, including Kathakali. After 1-1/2 hrs. of bus ride and packed inside the bus the worse ever (sardines are very happy in their cans comparing to me in that moment), it was all a wasted effort. Turned out that Saddam was killed this morning and I just found out about it because there was no connection but to wher I was going. There wasn't going to be a bus for the next 3 hours anywhere. Bus drivers had a 3 hr. strike. So I returned to my hotel in the train. I was so tired, that I missed my exit and went on to the next town.

Thrissur (Kerala), India - December 29th, 2006

Today I am travelling to Thrissur, considered Kerala's cultural capital, with many schools for performing arts, and a vibrant temple festival scene.
This would be another city to come back to and take some courses. A town 20 kms. south of Thrissur near Irinjalakuda, offers training in traditional arts, and dance. They offer short appreciation courses (about 1 month) to foreigners.
Thrissur has a Indu temple in the middle of the downtown circle, but only Hindus are allowed to visit. I visited the archeological museum located now in the Sakthan Thampuram Palace.

Kannur (Kerala), India - December 28th, 2006

Today I visited the St. Angelo Fort, built by the Portuguese in 1505. Great location and views of the town over the Arabian Sea on the S.W. of India.
In the way to the fort, there is a military base and the military guys were happy to chat and break the boredom of their vigilance duties.
Afterwards, I went to another beach closer to town, and, you guessed right! I was the only one in the water. The teenage boys love to come by to see a lady in bathingwuit, but this time I run out of the water and was faster in covering myself up than they realized...no show today, guys!

Kannur (Kerala), India - December 27, 2006

Kannur is located in the Malabar coast and was an important spice trading port, mentioned by the Venetian traveller Marco Polo. Today, it's a pleasnat coastal town with nice beaches.
This morning I visited the Kanhirode Weaver's Co-Op, 20 kms. N.W. of Kannur. It was an interesting experience taking a tour there. I did short videos of ladies spooling and men weaving with cottom threads, and they were thrilled to see themselves doing their job as I play it back. They produce furnishing fabrics, saris, dhotis and fine silks. The head person in charge of Business Office asked me if I was coming from a very wealthy family (it must have been my umbrella that gave it away....just kidding)!
In the afternoon I visited the Kerala Folklore Academy, that used to be a palace. It had a good selection of posters with different folk dances and costumes, also displayed utensils used in the kitchen of the palace when the raja lived there. In the front there was a serene lake with a temple and nice houses around the lake.
Since the weather was hot, I was glad to go to the beach. Again, I was the only one in the water, the waves were a little ruff, but it was pleasant to be in the water. I always choose a spot away from people so I don't offend them with my bikini, but few minutes later, people appear and want to look....I guess my body....those Indians!! so much for their spiritually. Thai people are so relax about the whole thing, and they will allow you your privacy--not the Indian people!